Mountaineering Gear List

Mountaineering gear is confusing. The fabrics have trade names, the specs use shorthand, and temperature ratings are vague. It is also expensive, so it pays to get it right the first time. Below is what we recommend for AWE trips, including specific brands and models we use. If something here doesn’t answer your question, email us.

Gloves

Hands get cold fast, and you need them to work. We use a layering system so you can add or strip warmth as the day changes.

1. Liner gloves (base layer)

• Material: thin fleece, lightweight merino wool, or a synthetic wicking fabric.
• What they do: move sweat off your skin and keep your hands comfortable when you aren’t working hard, like sleeping or sitting around camp.
• Look for: breathable fabric. Touchscreen fingertips are nice but optional.
• We like: Smartwool Merino 250 gloves.

2. Softshell gloves (mid layer)

• Material: thicker fleece, or a softshell fabric with some wind and water resistance.
• What they do: add warmth when you’re moving at a moderate pace in cold weather that isn’t extreme.
• Look for: good dexterity and some weather protection.
• We like: fleece-lined deerskin winter gloves, such as these lined deerskin work gloves.

3. Insulated gloves (outer shell)

• Material: a tough waterproof shell (Gore-Tex or similar) over synthetic insulation (PrimaLoft or similar).
• What they do: block wind, rain and snow while keeping you warm. You wear these as the outer layer in serious cold or wet, or when you’re working hard.
• Look for: waterproofing, a good warmth-to-weight ratio, and a wrist cinch so they stay put.
• We like: Black Diamond Soloist gloves.
• Sunny’s pick: AWE founder Sunny Stroeer’s favorite glove is the OZERO insulated deerskin glove.

A note on deerskin. It repels water naturally, and if it does get wet it won’t dry stiff like other leathers. That makes it good in humid weather or light rain. It is not waterproof, though. If you expect to get your hands soaked, use a fully waterproof Gore-Tex mountaineering glove or mitt.

4. Expedition mitts (extreme cold, optional)

• Material: like the outer shell gloves, with much thicker insulation, in a mitten shape for maximum warmth.
• What they do: go over your other layers on summit pushes, in high wind or extreme cold, or in an emergency.
• Look for: lots of warmth. Some have a removable trigger finger for dexterity.
• We like: Outdoor Research Alti GORE-TEX mitts.

Glove tips

• Bring a spare pair of liners in case the first pair gets wet.
• Make sure every pair fits well and lets you handle climbing gear.
• Practice taking each layer on and off quickly while wearing your bulky winter clothes.
• Carry hand warmers as an emergency backup.

Boots and footwear

Mountaineering boots

When we say “mountaineering boots,” we mean rigid boots with a full shank that take crampons. Which ones you need depends on the trip. The two things to understand:

• Single or double. A double boot has a removable inner liner. It is much warmer and is the right choice for extreme altitude and weather.
• Rigid or soft. You need a rigid boot for crampons.

What to bring for our trips:

• Aconcagua, Elbrus, the Himalaya: a double boot, such as the LOWA Expedition 6000 EVO RD.
• 5,000 m (16,400 ft) peaks in Peru, and glaciated US peaks like Mount Shasta, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier: a warm single boot usually works. The LOWA Alpine Expert is a good example. It works in most conditions on glaciated peaks in the Lower 48, and on some 5,000 and 6,000 meter (19,700 ft) peaks in warm weather. Early in the season, or in unusually harsh conditions, you may need a double boot. Those can be rented on location.
• Kilimanjaro: you do not need a mountaineering boot. A sturdy, waterproof, warm hiking boot like the LOWA Mauria Evo GTX is generally enough. If you run cold and want a warmer boot, look at the LOWA Tibet GTX.

Don’t cut corners on boots. Frostbite on your toes is a real risk. But a boot can also be too warm. If your feet sweat, you’re more prone to blisters and trench foot, and once you stop moving, wet feet put you at risk of frostbite.

Fit matters as much as the model. You’ll be wearing thick socks, sometimes over liner socks, and your feet swell with activity and altitude. You need room to wiggle your toes even then. A boot that’s slightly big is manageable (you may get a blister on the descent). A boot that’s slightly small cuts off blood flow to your toes and raises your risk of frostbite and permanent damage.

Sizing for women. Many high-altitude boots don’t come in women’s sizes. Order a men’s boot without hesitation. Subtract 1 to 1.5 from your women’s size to get your men’s size.

Cost and renting. Rigid single boots cost several hundred dollars. A good double boot costs $1,000 or more. You can rent suitable boots on location for most mountaineering expeditions. If you’re new to mountaineering, we suggest renting first so you can try boots before you buy.

On Aconcagua, our footwear is a pair of LOWA Expedition 6000 EVO RD boots for the upper mountain and LOWA’s light Innox Pro GTX Mid for the approach.

Approach shoes

On most expeditions you only wear mountaineering boots on summit day, during some skills sessions, and when you need extra warmth or crampons. The rest of the time you want a comfortable, well-made approach shoe.

That can be a light, soft hiking boot or a low trail shoe. We usually suggest Gore-Tex (better for stream crossings and snowfields) and a sticky rubber sole for traction on rock. Trail runners can work if they grip well and you’re confident you don’t need the ankle support of a mid-height boot. With low shoes, a light trail gaiter like Ultimate Direction’s FK Gaiter keeps rocks and dirt out.

• Mid-height: LOWA Trek Evo GTX Mid, light and soft.
• Low: LOWA Delago GTX Lo.

Sunny wrote more about choosing footwear for different terrain on the LOWA blog.

Camp shoes (optional)

You don’t need them, but most expedition climbers bring them. After a long day, changing into something comfortable at camp helps morale a lot.

• Cold weather and high altitude: down booties. Expect to pay $50 to $120. The pricier ones usually have a better warmth-to-weight ratio. Get a pair with some kind of outer sole. If you walk around camp in sock-style booties, they’ll fall apart quickly.
• Mild conditions: light sandals, or even Crocs.

Socks

You need two kinds:

• Approach: a thin synthetic or wool hiking sock. We like the LOWA Trekking sock.
• Summit day: a thick, heavyweight wool sock. We like the LOWA Winter Pro or the Smartwool Mountaineer Classic Edition Maximum Cushion crew. In extreme cold, or if your boots are a little big, you can wear a thin sock under the heavy one.

How many pairs:

• Two pairs of summit socks: one for the summit, one kept dry as your sleeping socks for the whole trip.
• One pair of approach socks for every 3 to 4 days on the trail.
• Never fewer than two pairs of trekking socks, even if you can wash clothes along the way.

You don’t need fresh socks every day. You do need dry feet.

Clothing

Long-sleeve sun hoodie

Every mountaineer should own one. A lightweight hoodie with full coverage protects you from UV, which is much stronger at altitude and on snow. It keeps you cooler than bare skin in the sun, and if you soak it in water you get evaporative cooling. It’s built for breathability, not warmth, but it can work as an extra layer in a pinch. Several brands make them. We like the Outdoor Research Echo Hoodie.

Short-sleeve base layer

Why bring one if you have a sun hoodie? A tee is nice when UV isn’t a worry, like warm afternoons in the tent. And a real base layer fits closer and is warmer than a sun hoodie, so it layers better on summit day. We like the Smartwool Merino 150 Base Layer Short Sleeve.

Skip tank tops and halter necks. They tend to chafe. A classic T-shirt cut is best.

For most AWE trips, bring the sun hoodie and one or more short-sleeve base layers. If you’re packing ultralight and have to choose one, bring the sun hoodie.

Softshell pants

These are your everyday trekking and climbing pants. They should be durable, stretchy, water-resistant and uninsulated. When you need more warmth, add a warm base layer underneath, and in extreme conditions down pants or hardshell pants on top.

We like the SheFly Go There pants. The softshell fabric and active cut work well, and the crotch zipper means you can pee without pulling your pants down. That is a big deal when you’re wearing a harness, and a nice bit of privacy even on a backpacking trip. We’ve used them hard and they hold up.

Packs and luggage

Pack size and bags depend on how long the trip is.

2 to 6 day trips (Mount Baker, the Grand Canyon and similar)

1. Mountaineering or trekking backpack, 55 to 75 liters. You carry this for the whole climb. Ideally it’s a mountaineering pack with an ice axe loop, an outside crampon or helmet pocket, and a removable lid.
2. A small, light duffel or carry-on suitcase. This stays at the hotel with your town clothes, books and other extras while we’re on the trail.

7 to 14 day expeditions (Kilimanjaro, Machu Picchu and similar)

1. Mountaineering backpack, 55 to 75 liters, with the same features as above. You carry it for the whole trip.
2. A small, light duffel or carry-on suitcase for what stays at the hotel.

The lighter you pack, the more you’ll enjoy the mountain.

14 days and longer (Aconcagua, Ishinca and Tocllaraju and similar)

1. Expedition backpack, such as the Hyperlite Southwest 4400. You carry it the whole time. On the approach to basecamp it only holds water, layers and your own snacks, because mules carry the rest of your gear (up to 20 kg / 44 lb per climber). Higher up, it has to hold all your upper-mountain gear plus your share of team gear: tent, food and fuel. Expect at least 35 lb on most ascents. On the descent to basecamp the day after the summit push, expect 50 lb or more.
2. A large, sturdy duffel for the mules, such as The North Face Base Camp Duffel in XL or XXL, or the equivalent from another brand. It has to fit your ice axe, mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pads and everything else for the upper mountain. Mule bags get thrown around and covered in dust, dirt, rain and snow, so choose one that’s tough and waterproof.
3. A small, light duffel or carry-on suitcase for what stays at the hotel.

Ice axes and ice tools

Ice axes

For most of our climbs, which are low-angle snow climbs, you want a light, straight-shaft ice axe. The right length depends on your height. This is usually what we use on our expeditions. The C.A.M.P. Corsa is a good example of a light axe that is fully rated.

Other axes we recommend:

• Salewa Alpine Tec
• C.A.M.P. X All Mountain (adze)

Ice tools

You usually don’t need them, and they don’t replace a straight-shaft axe. A few climbs need one (Tocllaraju, for example). Unless you ice climb, it doesn’t make sense to buy them. Rent on location.

If you do want your own:

• C.A.M.P. X All Mountain ice tool
• Petzl Quark

Other gear

We haven’t written up sleeping bags, crampons, harnesses and the rest yet. Most trip pages also have their own gear list. For anything else, send us an email.