Climbers on a snow ridge above the clouds on Lenin Peak

Trips / Peak Expeditions

Lenin Peak

Kyrgyzstan

Three weeks in the Kyrgyz Pamirs on a 7,134-meter (23,406-foot) peak. Glacier travel, fixed lines and long days above 6,000 meters (19,700 ft). By application.

Altitude
7,134 m (23,406 ft)
Length
22 days / 21 nights
Team
3 to 8 climbers and 2 guides
Price
$6,650
Status
Applications open

Lenin Peak sits on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at 7,134 meters (23,406 ft). For a 7,000-meter (23,000-foot) peak the logistics are simple: fly into Osh, drive to a base camp with hot showers and Wi-Fi, and start climbing. The climbing is the hard part.

Above Camp 1 you’re on glacier the whole way. Roped travel, crevasse crossings, a few ladders, jumaring up fixed lines, and a summit day from Camp 3 at 6,100 meters (20,000 ft). Expect wind, snow camping and storms that build fast. We go up to Camp 3 once to acclimatize, come back down to rest at base camp, then go up again for the summit, with a spare day for weather.

Packs run 35 to 40 pounds going up and can reach 65 coming down after the summit. Porters can be hired above base camp at extra cost.

This trip is for climbers with glacier skills and at least one big peak behind them; a summit above 5,000 meters (16,400 ft) is recommended. We take applications, and AWE alumnae get priority. If you’re new to us, we’ll talk through your experience with you before a spot is offered.

Is this trip for you?

  • You have glacier skills: roped travel, crampons and ice axe.
  • You have at least one big peak behind you. A summit above 5,000 m (16,400 ft) is recommended.
  • Strong backpacking experience and excellent fitness.
  • You're comfortable descending steep, exposed ground with a heavy pack.
  • You can be away for three weeks. AWE alumnae get priority, and we talk with every new climber first.

Not sure? Ask us. We'll tell you honestly whether it's the right next step, and what would get you ready.

Take the details with you

A printable trip overview: dates, day by day, what's included, what to bring and the questions people ask. Leave your name and email and the download link appears right here.

Day by day

  1. Day 1Arrive in Osh, hotel overnight
  2. Day 2Transfer to Base Camp at 3,600 m (the IMC Pamir camp)
  3. Days 3 to 4Acclimatization hikes (Petrovskiy Peak ridge, waterfall)
  4. Day 5Climb to Camp 1 (4400m / 14,400 ft)
  5. Day 6Acclimatization ascent of Home Peak (4750m / 15,580 ft) or Yukhin Peak (5130m / 16,830 ft)
  6. Day 7Rest and prepare for the ascent
  7. Day 8Move to Camp 2 (5300m / 17,400 ft)
  8. Day 9Move to Camp 3 (6100m / 20,000 ft)
  9. Day 10Descend to Camp 1, rest
  10. Days 11 to 13Trek to Base Camp, rest
  11. Days 14 to 16Second rotation to Camps 1, 2, and 3
  12. Day 17Summit Day (7134m / 23,406 ft) and return to Camp 3
  13. Day 18Descend to Camp 1
  14. Day 19Return to Base Camp
  15. Day 20Weather/contingency day
  16. Day 21Transfer to Osh, hotel overnight
  17. Day 22Depart

Itineraries change with weather, team condition and local logistics.

Included

  • Transfers from Osh to base camp and back
  • 2 hotel nights in Osh (double or twin) with breakfast
  • Tents with mattresses and electricity at base camp and Camp 1
  • High-altitude tents at Camps 2 and 3
  • Meals at base camp and Camp 1 (no lunch on moving days)
  • High-altitude meals at Camps 2 and 3
  • Base camp dining tent, hot showers, storage tent and Wi-Fi
  • Rescue team registration, ecological fee, basic medical kit, radios
  • Climbing permits and registrations
  • AWE expedition leader and local guide staff

Not included

  • Flights to and from Osh
  • Kyrgyz visa, if required for your passport
  • Personal climbing gear and rentals
  • Porter support above base camp (optional, extra cost)
  • Rescue insurance (required) and travel insurance (recommended)
  • Tips and personal expenses

Bring your own

  • Double mountaineering boots
  • Ice axe, crampons and helmet
  • Harness, 2 locking carabiners, belay device and ascender
  • Sleeping bag rated -20°F to -40°F (a second 0°F bag for base camp is optional)
  • 75 liter or larger pack
  • Sleeping pads
  • Expedition-weight down jacket
  • Hard shell jacket
  • High-altitude mittens

The full packing list comes in your trip handbook after you book.

Questions people ask

How fit do I need to be?

Extremely. Plan your training around long days with a heavy pack and big elevation gain, for weeks at a time.

Is it technical?

Not steep, but above Camp 1 it's glacier the whole way: roped travel, crevasse crossings, ladders and fixed lines with a jumar. Summit day is long and cold.

How much will I carry?

35 to 40 pounds on the way up, up to 65 coming back down to base camp. Porter support above base camp is available; budget upwards of $600 for 20 kg.

How far do we go each day?

Anywhere from 2 to 15 miles, with 2,000 to 4,000 feet (600 to 1,200 m) of climbing.

Who gets accepted?

Priority goes to AWE alumnae with at least one prior expedition with us. We also consider climbers new to AWE with strong experience at altitude and on glaciers, after a conversation with our team.

Should I take Diamox (acetazolamide)?

That's a decision for you and your doctor. Plenty of climbers summit without it. How well you acclimatize is mostly genetic, and the best predictor is how you've done at altitude before. If you've never been this high, Diamox can improve your odds, but it has side effects and takes a day or two to start working. If you'd rather learn what your body does on its own, skip it.

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